Because Even Alexander McQueen Gets Sick of Fashion

“You know, it’s hard enough doing this job — I don’t have to live it as well. I’d rather sit at home watching ‘Coronation Street.’ ”
Alexander McQueen

Luxury Executives Preach Sustainability

NEW DELHI — Luxury goods and sustainable development are not mutually exclusive, according to luxury and retail titan François-Henri Pinault.

Speaking at an International Herald Tribune luxury conference here Wednesday, Pinault asserted that “more than ever, people want to return to genuine values such as timelessness, sincerity and exemplary standards.”

Pinault, who is chairman and chief executive officer of PPR, parent of Gucci Group, said in a keynote address that his version of sustainable luxury — the conference’s theme — encompasses ethics, collectivity and conservation. Conservation of the world’s natural resources is desirable, but also the continuation of knowledge and respect for craft and materials, he said.

Luxury is not superfluous, as it protects trades and skills, the sustainability of which is a necessity for human endeavor, he argued.

“The duty of luxury is not only to act, but also to mobilize,” he said. “I believe luxury is not just sustainable, but responsible.”

Pinault also took the occasion to trumpet PPR’s new foundation for women and the PPR-produced documentary “Home,” slated for worldwide release on the Internet, television and in theaters on June 5, World Environment Day.

How luxury brands can sustain their growth of the last 15 years is a hot topic at the two-day conference, hosted by IHT fashion editor Suzy Menkes.

Sustainability has become the most important ingredient of fashion now, said Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director of Balenciaga. He said he chose to make his new Los Angeles store eco-friendly and energy efficient, and it will serve as the model for all his future boutiques.

Dries Van Noten, who has been getting his clothes and accessories embellished in Indian ateliers for 20 years, said he has invested in improving the working conditions and income of his embroidery workers in Calcutta. Earlier, it was not possible to produce white garments, as the workshops were too dirty. Recently, the Belgian designer used white in his collection and had the clothes produced in India.

“Time is required to achieve deep luxury,” said Christian Blanckaert, executive vice president of Hermès International. He asserted that in times of economic recession, people prefer to spend money on quality, durability and timelessness rather than fast fashion.

-Mahlia S. Lone

CNN's Revealed: Carine Roitfeld

Fashion master or mentor? An agonizing choice for young talents

PARIS: Stretching, floating, spreading like ectoplasm or retreating into an oval shape -Gareth Pugh's collection was a screen full of inspiration. The clothes were unmistakably his dramatic and graphic vision; but the diamond patterns, sun-ray pleats, inserts of studs and even the model's floating ponytail slowly spread and then evaporated.

After a dramatic menswear runway show a month ago, the 27-year-old British designer took his collection to video, offering an intuitive expression of his world. And on the first day of the Paris autumn/winter 2009 season, he chose a different, off-the-runway approach.

"I wanted to express what we wanted to do with the collection," Pugh says. "Even if it did look more like a long perfume ad!"

When - and surely it is not "if" - this hyper-talented designer builds his brand, he will produce fragrance, handbags, makeup or even home furnishings. But for that he will need big money. And like all start-up designers in their 20s, he is faced with an agonizing choice: master or mentor?

Since he graduated from Central Saint Martin's fashion school in London in 2003, Pugh has been taken under the wing of the designer Rick Owens and his partner, Michele Lamy. Although Pugh's first collections were more show biz than business - making it as costumes for Kylie Minogue's tour - his extreme club clothes, with their inflated shapes and checkerboard patterns, have been turned into a buck.

"We sell the clothes - we really do," Julie Gilhart, design director of Barneys New York, said after congratulating the designer and making a showroom appointment to see the clothes.

But it is no secret that Bernard Arnault, chief executive of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, sponsored Pugh's menswear show in Paris in January and that his people have their eyes on this designer. Asking for anonymity, a person familiar with the situation said that, after Karl Lagerfeld advised Arnault to scoop up Pugh as a major creative talent, the LVMH team approached Pugh and Lamy.

"LVMH is a very big company with lots of people, and they saw something in me that they wanted to bring out," Pugh says, adding that he is extremely happy with the Rick Owens collaboration and wants to "tread water" in these difficult times, having the confidence in himself "that I am going to get to a certain level." Asked if he would ever join the corporate club, Pugh replied: "If someone came along and it was right - never say never."

It has been 25 years since Lagerfeld joined Chanel, setting in motion the idea that, to reinvent themselves, famous old houses had to tap fresh designers. Since then, high fashion has swallowed dozens of burgeoning talents - most famously John Galliano, firstly at Givenchy and ultimately at Dior. But also Alexander McQueen, also first at Givenchy (owned by LVMH) and then at the corporate rival PPR, where the designer has his own line.

Any fashionista could chant a litany of these two-prong careers, those who are working for a big house and also for themselves, kicking off with the famous collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs and embracing the more recent fashion hookups, as when Riccardo Tisci gave up his own Italian label to design for Givenchy.

Now that the economic climate is rougher than ever for fledgling fashion companies, it is a brave designer who would turn down the corporate blandishments.Kris Van Asscheis a case in point. On Wednesday, the Belgian-born designer sent out a poetic collection of masculine/feminine clothes, illuminated with metallic torques and bangles. Mannish tailoring, like wrap coats or a four-pocket jacket, layered over soft gaucho pants (slightly too many of them) made for a good and wearable collection.

This latest play on the man/woman theme expressed - not least in the program notes that quoted the French poetBaudelaire's "Les Fleurs du mal" - an elegiac romance. And it could not be more different from Van Assche's other day job at Dior Homme, which gives him the finances to keep alive his own men's and women's lines.

Delphine Arnault, daughter of the founder and an executive at LVMH, was sitting front row. "I've always liked young designers - I find it super interesting, and, anyway, Kris works for us," Arnault said.

As the first generation of the "two-prong" designers reaches maturity, it is easy to see what has happened. Although Jacobs has recently (after an open clash with LVMH) grown his own brand, it is still light years short of the Louis Vuitton sales numbers. The Galliano brand is puny compared with Dior, and the collapse of Ittierre, Galliano's Italian manufacturer, will put thebrakes on any hope of rapid expansion.

The story continues at The International Tribune Online

The Year of the Newcomer

The past few weeks have been filled with bad news for the fashion industry; cancelled shows, declining sales and company layoffs, have cast a dark shadow on days normally filled with back-to-back shows, fabulous parties and star-studded front rows. But the news is not all doom and gloom, as one group stands to profit from the collective misfortune: cue the up-and-comer.
Cost-conscious buyers are taking a new look at more moderately priced new brands and are keen to be the first to find the next Alexander Wang. Take for example the great turn-out for an indie fashion show in New York's artsy Long Island City neighborhoodowd that during New York Fashion Week. The same has been true for the increased interest in fashion school graduate show's, such as the Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. Let's hope some fresh talent will be enough to revive the industry's dampened spirit-




Subdivision Fashion Week NYC 2009 from stephen on Vimeo.



"Starting now is difficult ... there is less demand now because of the economic circumstances, but the fashion industry is always looking for new ideas, new talent, fresh things ... It's important to stand out." Alessia De Pasquale, designer


"It's going to be a lot more about relying on personality and experience, instead of cash." Andrew Buckler, designer



Bunka Fashion College Graduate Fashion Show 2009

McQueen Goes to the Dark Side

Staying Gorgeous in Ugly Times

“I think a new ‘make do and mend’ subculture will evolve, where we’ll be hunting for bargains, mixing vintage with new clothing — and recycling. These times will bring out experimentation and the eccentric in all of us.” Julien Macdonald


Well it might be time to get creative if you would like to maintain your fashionista lifestyle on a recessionista budget, but luckily, three great sites, Swap Style, Dress Vault and The Closet Bureau, allow anyone to look fabulous without spending very much, and in some cases you might end up with a little bit of coin in your changepurse.

Dress Vault
The Basics:

A fashion network for dress borrowing, that also doubles as a social network, connecting style soulmates. Dress Vault allows members to lend, borrow and buy/sell dresses.

How It Works:

Both lenders and borrowers create profiles in order to participate. If you are looking for a dress, simply browse the photographs and contact the owner if you're interested. The only downside is that you'll only have the dress for one week (including shipping back and forth). The good news is that lenders are protected against damages and late shipments.

Why It's Great:

Because you'll never be photographed twice in the same dress



Swapstyle
The Basics:

Big on style, but short on cash? Swapstyle allows you to use your unwanted clothing, accessories, cosmetics and shoes as currency to buy what you really want.

How It Works:

To get started swapping, create a free profile with photos of all the items that you would like to swap. You can also make a wish list of the things you would like to have. Shop other members profiles and contact them if you're interested in swapping. Likewise, other members will contact you if they would like to swap for one of your items.

Be sure to check the "Swaplifter" list to avoid dealing with less than savory swappers.

Why It's Great:

Because you don't have to spend a dime to get your shopping fix



The Closet Bureau
The Basics:

If you've discovered that your love of designer clothing is taking up too much space and money, The Closet Bureau is ready to hep you clean out your closet and replenish your shopping fund.

How It Works:

Arrange for The Closet Bureau to pick-up your old designers duds, and they will take a care of the rest. You'll receive a payment for the proceeds once your items are sold.

Why It's Great:

Because it's all the benefits of selling on Ebay without any of the hassle