"I saw the slim black ski pants and smooth hooded sweaters that appeared early in the show, then the egg-shaped tunic dresses in plush wools with carefully — obsessively — controlled volumes, and I thought of a spa or a chic sanitarium in the Black Forest. I mean, I was off on some trip. The ski looks, but done with exact proportions and vivid primary colors, with the pattern on the sweater collars or hoods vaguely suggesting a tucked-in print scarf. The couture shapes that the designer Raf Simons explored last season — the fixed waists, the loose-back jackets — and now shown in a sport way with black ski pants. He brought the couture shapes forward so that they seemed natural to the Jil Sander imagery."


Cathy Horyn for The New York Times