Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Narciso Rodriguez, Split From Liz Claiborne, Delivers Delightful Collection


Divorce suits Narciso Rodriguez.

Split from the corporate demands of his former partner Liz Claiborne Inc, the designer delivered a delightful collection of summery linen and silk that looked both elegant and comfortable - sometimes a rare combination. The colors were mostly neutrals or black, with silhouettes that seemed aimed at flattering a host of corporal flaws. For instance, deceptively simple dresses billowed with volume after tapering slightly just above the waist. That leaves the actual waist and tummy to the imagination. Tricky.

Those dresses recalled the simplicity of the bias-cut silk wedding gown he created for Carolyn Bissette Kennedy. Yet the collection covered everything from the office to a garden party and the symphony, including several well-tailored jackets.

Silk prints - an important trend for the spring season - were intriguing. Some looked like close-ups of veiny leaves, either covered with transparent film, or interspersed with transparent panels.

It’s hard to find anything to criticize in this lovely collection. Except the guest list. Among the invited stars -Jessica Alba, Isabel Toledo - was Courtney Love. The onetime rock star , her dress partly unzipped in back and her eyes shiny, talked animatedly, waving her arms and ruffling her hair, during the entire show from her front row seat. . .

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